Following a week of visiting family in England this September, JJ and I flew to Italy. We stayed with JJ’s sister in Cremona Province for most of our time there and also spent a couple of nights away. Sleeping in a castle had been on my bucket list for ever, so on one of those nights away we finally ticked it off.
From Cremona Province in the Lombardy region of Northern Italy, JJ and I drove 1.5 hours due east to Verona. I figured it was worth stopping at the famed setting of ‘Romeo and Juliette’ since we were on a romantic mini-break 🙂
LUNCH + SIGHTSEEING IN VERONA
Verona is the second-largest city in the Veneto region (after Venice) and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are several well-preserved Roman structures in the historic centre, including an impressive amphitheater. Verona Arena was originally constructed in the 1st century and predates Rome’s Colosseum. I imagine it would be pretty spectacular to see one of the arena’s summer performances.
Okay, I know it’s super cheesy to visit Casa di Giulietta (Juliette’s House), but when in Rome Verona. And nope, we didn’t get a photo of me standing on the balcony, it’s really not worth queueing for. As if Shakespeare’s Juliette was a real person who actually lived in that house, c’mon people. Plus, if I’d known earlier about the gross chewing gum wall I wouldn’t have bothered. Seriously, what is that grimness about?
Before heading to Bevilacqua JJ and I had a lovely lunch at Osteria Dal Cavaliere. We were looking for an uncrowded spot away from all the large tour groups and eventually found one in Piazzetta Scala. To summarise; great food, friendly service and reasonable prices – recommend.
RELAIS CASTELLO BEVILACQUA
A 45-minute drive southeast of Verona is the comune of Bevilacqua. This municipality’s main attraction is medieval Bevilacqua Castle. The castle was built in 1336 but sustained considerable damage throughout various wars with the Venetians. In around 1532 restoration work began to transform the old fort into a more modern country manor. Today, Castello Bevilacqua is a luxury boutique hotel situated in 25 square kilometres of lush parkland.
During our stay at ‘The Bevilacqua’, JJ & I occupied Junior Suite Royal Francesco II and we felt very fancy. The suite shares its name with the eldest son of Guglielmo Bevilacqua who was the castle’s first owner. Just look at that amazing four-poster bed! As well as frescoed walls and renaissance period furnishings, Francesco II has all the mod cons; WiFi, TV, aircon, etc. Our room was so comfy that we massively overslept and almost missed breakfast the next morning, oops.
To make stays even more unique, Castello Bevilacqua can organise various optional activities. Some of the experiences on offer are an escape room, murder mystery party, private wine tasting or vintage car hire. We only stayed one night, but if we’d had longer, I reckon the escape room would have been fun. After seeing the well-stocked wine cellar, I also wish we’d made time for a tasting *sigh. Hopefully we’ll make our way back to Bevilacqua someday.
APERITIVO IN MONTAGNANA
About 5km from Bevilacqua is the comune of Montagnana which has one of the best-preserved medieval town walls in Europe. The 2km long ancient wall that surrounds Montagnana has remained (mostly) intact since the 11th century. As this town was only a short drive away from our hotel, we decided to check it out before returning to the castle for dinner.
Once parked just outside the wall, JJ and I set off to find an aperitivo venue in Montagnana’s historic centre. The place was practically deserted, so I guess the tourist hordes haven’t discovered this gem yet. We settled at Caffetteria Prosciutteria Duomo in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. The cafe had a perfect view of the Gothic cathedral for us to enjoy along with our Spritz Aperols and nibbles.
RISTORANTE ALL’ANTICA ALA @ CASTELLO BEVILACQUA
Part of the fun of staying in a medieval castle is being surrounded by awesome antiquities like armour and weaponry. However, dining at Ristorante All’Antica Ala isn’t all about taking selfies with historic artifacts, a delicious Veronese menu awaits!
Our evening meal began with an antipasto selection of cold cuts and pickled veg. For main course, I had turbot fillet with pistachio crumbs and toasted almonds, JJ had the duck. We washed everything down with a bottle of bloody excellent Valpolicella and finished with an epic cheeseboard. SO. GOOD.
The following morning, after breakfast JJ and I left the 5-star sophistication of Castello Bevilacqua for picturesque Lake Garda.
Read my next post from this Italy trip:
24 Hours on Lake Garda – Bardolino + Sirmione
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Wow! The castle and your room look so grand. I would love to stay a night in a place like that. The bathroom, suite garden all look from the bygone era. I am sure you guys felt like king and queen! Well, I would also like to visit Casa di Giulietta, cheesy or not!
We definitely felt like we were spoiling ourselves staying in such a grand place 🙂
I have always wanted to stay in a castle. I am a history addict and this would be like a dream come true for me. And if it is in the middle of such beautiful surroundings, nothing better. I would love to visit Verona once we get ready to travel again. And definitely explore staying at this castle.
Great Soumya! I’d love to hear about your experience if you visit.
I’ve wondered about staying in a castle. Castello Bevilacqua certainly looks like a beautiful one to stay in. I think I would pick the vintage car hire I think. What a great way to see the area. I have to say, I am sad about Verona. Romeo and Juliet is one of my favorite romances. What a let down. The gum wall sounds disgusting though. Why is that even a thing?
Haha I wasn’t sure if I was being a curmudgeon, hating Juliette’s House so much. But it is honestly the WORST kind of tourist trap. The chewing gum wall is disgusting and there’s also a souvenir shop in the courtyard where the employees constantly spruik their rubbishy wares through a megaphone. Castello Bevilacqua and Montagnana are amazing though + thankfully outside touristy Verona.
Magical Verona is on my travel list and sleeping in a castle is! This would tick off two in one. Castello Belvilacqua looks charming and so authentic.
The Castello was amazing Larch, I highly recommend it when you get to tick sleeping in a castle off your list 🙂
Thank you for transporting me to Italy. I have never been and would love to visit one day. I’m so sad about everything that has happened to those beautiful people because of this nasty virus.
I know, we’re grateful that we were able to visit our family in the UK and Italy at the end of last year before all the pandemic craziness hit.
That bed and the room looks so amazing, I can understand why you would have overslept, the hotel should have extended breakfast just for that reason. The Gothic Cathedral sounds amazing and love that it isn’t crowded with tourists.
Haha maybe I’ll suggest all-day breakfast to the Bevilacqua 🙂
This sounds like it was amazing. I have never even seen a castle yet, never mind stayed in one, but you can be sure I’ve now added it to my bucketlist! The artifacts and architecture are incredible!
The architecture and history in this part of the world is really mind-blowing. I hope you get to visit soon Kelly 🙂
I sure do as well!