Gorilla trekking in Rwanda’s Virunga Mountains

Located in northwestern Rwanda, Volcanoes National Park borders Virunga National Park in the Democratic Republic of Congo and Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in Uganda. The area became Africa’s first-ever national park in 1925 to protect endangered mountain gorillas and was made famous by American primatologist Dian Fossey. Mountain gorilla trekking in Volcanoes NP was the last stop on our 8-day tour of Rwanda and the ultimate highlight.

DAY 6 – MONDAY

On Christmas morning, after a leisurely breakfast by Lake Kivu, our Kazinga Tours guide Nicholas drove us to Mountain Gorilla View Lodge in Musanze. The journey from Kibuye was almost 3 hours and we arrived in Volcanoes National Park around lunchtime.

We spent the afternoon exploring the lodge grounds and surrounding area.

The lodge grounds were beautiful and our cottage was spacious with a king-sized bed, full bathroom and lounge with fireplace. Meals were served all you can eat buffet-style – tasty and plentiful! We had the option of eggs cooked to order in the mornings and in the evening there was a station where you could custom order a stir-fry. Before dinner, a dance troupe performed traditional dance on the lawn. After dinner, a staff member would come to our cottage and offer to light a log fire.

DAY 7 – TUESDAY

At 6:30 AM JJ and I left with Nicholas for Volcanoes National Park Headquarters in Kinigi village. We arrived 30 minutes later fidgety with anticipation.

We joined a large gathering of other trekkers and eventually, the crowd was divided into groups of eight. Each group was assigned a ranger and a gorilla family. Ignace, our ranger, briefed us on the Isabukuru family before Nicholas drove us to the starting point of our trek. We set off at around 8:00 AM.

Kinigi village: baby gorilla naming ceremonial site

At the beginning of each hiking trail, there’s a group of porters ready to assist trekkers. You can avail the help of a porter for US$10. JJ and I borrowed hand-carved walking sticks with gorilla designs on the top. The terrain is uneven and slippery in parts so I’d definitely recommend both hiring a porter and using a stick. You have the option of buying the walking stick at the end of the trek to take home as a souvenir.

“Travel is glamorous only in retrospect.” – Paul Theroux

The start of the hike was fairly flat as we passed through farmland. These rural farming communities are allocated 10% of the gorilla trekking revenue and the other 90% goes towards conservation. It wasn’t long before the trail became steep and rocky as we ascended the volcano. We were on this terrain for about an hour at ranger Ignace’s brisk pace.

Upon entering the bamboo forest we negotiated our way through dense foliage while trying to avoid stinging nettles and thistles. Honestly, the nettles and thistles are unavoidable, you will get stung. Even if you’re completely covered the nettles will get you through your clothes, or on your face. You’ll be sore for a bit and then quickly get over it.

Along the way, Ignace stopped to point out the various plants that make up gorillas’ diets. He showed us how they strip away spiky thistle leaves to eat the stalks.

Ignace encouraging us to try a piece of thistle stalk – tasted like celery

We were in the forest for an hour or so before we were suddenly able to smell animals. The trackers alerted us that we were close. Ignace explained how to behave when we saw the gorillas and how to interpret certain noises that they’d make. As we approached the Isabukuru group, we left our bags in a clearing about 50 metres away and took only our cameras with us.

My heart was pounding as we approached the nest where the huge silverback was lying with his harem. We all fell silent. The patriarch of the gorilla troop was a colossal 200kg and intimidating even as he rested peacefully. I couldn’t help wondering what they thought about us invading their living area and ogling them whilst clicking with cameras. They seemed completely indifferent to our presence. We were allowed to stay with these gentle giants for one hour only.

Isabukuru and his harem

We were so much closer than I expected

The precious hour passed far too quickly and we reluctantly left the gorillas to start heading back down the volcano. Three of the armed trackers stayed with the family to guard them against any poachers that might have followed us.

GORILLA TREKKING TIPS

To be in the presence of mountain gorillas in their natural habitat is a rare, incredible encounter that few people have the privilege of experiencing. If you’re lucky enough to get this opportunity, here are some things you should know:

+  Permits cost US$1,500 each and should be booked well in advance, especially during high season. Only 80 permits are available per day (more info on this website). We booked through Kazinga Tours.

+  Take cash in small denominations to tip your ranger and trackers. Porter services are US$10 per person.

+  You shouldn’t trek if you have a cold or flu. Although gorillas are genetically similar to humans they don’t have exactly the same immunities. Catching a common cold from us can be life-threatening for them.

+  If you’re not so fit or have an injury, there are mountain gorilla families that stay at lower altitudes and are easier to walk to. Make your guide aware of your physical ability before you check-in at HQ.

+  I included a full list of everything I packed for our Africa trip in this post. These are the things that I was really glad I had with me for gorilla trekking…..

1. Hiking boots with good ankle support
2. Gaiters – we squelched through calf-deep mud in places
3. Long-sleeved shirt and pants – stinging nettle protection
4. Gloves – again to limit the amount you’re stung to buggery by nettles!
5. Hat – there’s no shade until you reach the forest and the sun is fierce at altitude
6. Water and snacks

JJ and I left Musanze after breakfast and spent most of the day in Kigali before catching a flight to Zanzibar. If you’re interested in visiting ‘the land of a thousand hills’, below are all my accounts of our time in Rwanda.

More posts from this trip:

Kigali Memorial + Nyanza King’s Palace Museum

Nyungwe National Park – Chimpanzee tracking

Kibuye, Lake Kivu – Christmas Eve celebration

7 Days on Unguja Island – Exploring Zanzibar, Tanzania

3 Day stopover in the United Arab Emirates

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