From the Amazon rainforest to the tropical wetlands

Hato La Aurora private nature reserve on Los Llanos of Casanare Department is the destination for a Colombian safari. The reserve is home to 300-odd bird species, anacondas, anteaters, caiman, capybaras and jaguars. Activities include 4×4 driving, walking, horse riding and experiencing the Llanero (cowboy) way of life. After 3 incredible days in the Amazon, JJ and I flew to the city of Yopal to begin our journey east.

GETTING TO HATO LA AURORA

Los Llanos “The Plains” are just emerging as a tourism destination, so the infrastructure is relatively undeveloped. The idea of such an authentic experience was really appealing to me, but I knew that I’d need help with our itinerary. After a bit of research, I contacted Julia from Aventur Eco Tours.

I can highly recommend Aventur Eco Tours, they’re based in Yopal (the capital of Casanare Department). One of the company founders was actually born and raised in Yopal. As the name suggests, the organisation is a sustainable tour operator that only works with small local businesses. Ground transfers, accommodation and daily excursions were all organised for us, everything went seamlessly.

After leaving Leticia in Amazonas on Thursday the plan was to arrive in Yopal that evening. However, we had a slight hiccup with a missed connection and had to stay the night in Bogotá. Julia quickly changed our early Friday morning hotel pick up, to a pick up from Yopal airport at midday. The later start was no biggie in the scheme of things. JJ and I didn’t have too much planned for our first day in Casanare, apart from travelling out to the reserve.

DAY 7 – FRIDAY

The Hato La Aurora reserve is also a 17,000-hectare cattle ranch, owned by the Barragán family. Wild animals are free to roam the property amongst the 5,000 head of livestock and hunting is prohibited. Our accommodation on the hato was Ecolodge Juan Solito. The lodge is a 6-hour drive from Yopal, over mostly unsealed roads. During the road trip, we saw so much wildlife that I was getting increasingly excited to reach our destination. As it was the rainy season (May-September), the last half hour of our journey had to be completed by canoe. The adventure had begun!

Evening arrival at Ecolodge Juan Solito by canoe

We arrived at the ecolodge just as darkness fell to discover there’d been a temporary power cut due to a recent storm. We were escorted to our room by torchlight and realised that the staff had lit candles for us, qué romántico. Once we’d dropped off our bags, it was time for a hearty dinner in the outdoor dining area. JJ and I were the only guests that week, so with no other English speakers around, we had the perfect opportunity to improve our Spanish.

Juan Solito lodge offers basic, low environmental impact accommodation. It has a main house with 8 rooms and 4 rustic cabins that can accommodate up to 5 people. All rooms have clean private bathrooms with cold running water. The windows in our room were flyscreens which encouraged airflow and there was also a wall fan. Electricity is available, but WiFi’s not as there are far more interesting things (other than your phone) to look at here. We had a very comfortable full board stay at the lodge and the food was always fresh and plentiful.

Ecolodge Juan Solito kitchen + dining area overlooking Rio Ariporo

DAY 8 – SATURDAY

Today began with a typical Colombian breakfast at the lodge’s dining table with its view of the Ariporo River. After eating, we put on rubber boots and met our guides for the day, Julio and José. Together, we crossed the river by canoe ferry to where a Jeep was parked in the field opposite. Our plan for the day was a 4×4 safari, exploring various wildlife viewing locations within the reserve.

Thanks to our knowledgeable guides and their well-trained eyes, we spotted so many amazing animals. I didn’t know where to look first, there was such concentrated biodiversity! Huge groups of capybaras were ambling around, while caiman slid into water holes beside sunbathing turtles and iguanas clambered in trees. Not forgetting the enormous 6-metre anaconda that we came across. Oh and the array of colourful birds. WOW.

Safari time with Julio Barragán

Burrowing owls

Anaconda hiding in the marshy undergrowth

Lunch was a leisurely affair on the verandah at the hato’s lovely main farmhouse. There were some beautiful photographs of jaguars on the walls. The pics were taken by camera traps on the property for a research and conservation project with Panthera.org. After enjoying a traditional meal of soup, beef, avocado and patacones, we relaxed in hammocks while watching birds in the garden.

Our safari continued after a relaxing couple of hours at the farmhouse. At dusk, we watched mesmerised as scarlet ibis’ and great egrets assembled en masse in their roosting trees.

Roosting o’clock

As the skies darkened it was time to head back to our lodge for dinner. On the way, we watched hypnotic fireflies and the brightest of stars, while keeping an eye out for nocturnal fauna.

DAY 9 – SUNDAY

In the morning we went for a horse ride in the lodge surrounds with José. Before heading to meet the horses I was stung by a spiky green caterpillar that had sneakily attached itself to my jacket. Ouchies, that burned! José quickly doused my hands with alcohol and the stinging soon subsided. I was just happy it wasn’t a scorpion 🙂

We stopped along the bridle path to try our hand at artisanal fishing. The fish weren’t biting but it was fun to give it a go. On the way back to the lodge a hawk flew past us clutching a snake in its talons. Unbelievable, I wish I’d had my camera handy at that moment.

Ready to ride

Later that afternoon, JJ and I visited a nesting colony with another guide, Juan. A multitude of waterbirds were congregating with their chicks as caimans lurked in the water below. I’d never seen anything quite like this, it was an awesome scene.

Agami heron

Wild horses spotted on the way back to the lodge

That evening during dinner we got a taste of traditional Llanero music. Julio sang and played the guitar, while José played the Venezuelan harp and Juan shook maracas. The songs were stories and poems, inspired by the landscape and the cowboy lifestyle. Everyone we met at Hato La Aurora showed us immense hospitality and we were constantly in awe of their many skills.

Llanero music

DAY 10 – MONDAY

On our final day, we had time to walk from the lodge through the nearby gallery forest and along the river with Juan. We spotted howler monkeys, a kingfisher and also learned more about the flora of the area.

When we arrived back at the lodge, I had a close encounter with a deer that took an interest in my camera. The deer came right up to me and started sniffing my face before giving me a lick and wandering off. José then pointed out the owl that I’d been hearing at night, it was snoozing in a tree near our room. Visiting this stunning place had been eventful to say the least!

JJ and I had reached the halfway point in our travels. I was already enamoured with Colombia, but witnessing the abundant wildlife and magic of Los Llanos had me completely head over heels for the country.

After lunch, we began the long journey back to Yopal where we would spend the night, before flying to Santa Marta. Read the post all about our time in Parque Tayrona on Colombia’s Caribbean coast here.

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