California’s Rugged Central Coast

When I found out I was being sent to San Jose for a work conference last October, I couldn’t resist taking the opportunity to explore somewhere new. Carmel marks the starting point of the Big Sur coast which continues down to San Simeon. Bordered to the east by the Santa Lucia Range and to the west by the Pacific Ocean, Carmel is a small beach city on the Monterey Peninsula. It’s known for historic Carmel Mission and the fairytale cottages of its villagey town centre. 

DAY 1 – SATURDAY

My flight arrived in San Jose that afternoon and I caught the 2:40 PM Monterey Airbus from the airport. On the way to my Airbnb the bus stopped in Prundale, Marina, and Monterey. It was great to get a feel for the area and in Monterey, I was surprised to see a stag and a doe wandering the streets together! The Airbus service was very comfortable and the drivers were super friendly, I recommend it for trips to and from SJC or SFO airports.

Following a 2 hour journey from San Jose airport, I was dropped off at this lovely Airbnb. I was sold by the description of the property being situated ‘on a hill surrounded by trees, deer, bunnies, quail and hawks’. There was a photo of a lynx in the garden as well so I couldn’t go past it! Location-wise the Airbnb was about halfway between Carmel Valley and Carmel-by-the-Sea. All of the city’s attractions were a short Uber ride or walk away.

On arrival, I was warmly welcomed by the delightful owner Mary and shown to my spacious room with ensuite. Once I’d refreshed, I started to look at dinner options. The Barnyard Shopping Village was only a 20-minute walk away so I decided to wander over there.

The Barnyard features a variety of boutique shops specialising in art, giftware, clothing, jewellery and home furnishings. In addition, there are 8 locally owned restaurants which offer a variety of casual and fine dining choices. I didn’t feel like anything too fancy so I went with Allegro Pizzeria and it was delish.

After a big bowl of pasta and a glass of red, I made my way back to the B&B to sleep off my jetlag.

DAY 2 – SUNDAY

I had big plans for my only full day in Carmel and I’m happy to report that I achieved everything on my list.

First up was a jazz brunch at Mission Ranch. Famously rescued by Clint Eastwood from condo developers, this 1800’s ranch is a landmark of the area. The view is gorgeous; sheep grazing in the nearby meadow, with the Santa Lucia Mountains and the Pacific Ocean in the distance.

Sunday Brunch is served from 10:00 AM to 1:30 PM and I made sure to get an Uber there for the first sitting. I arrived just before 10 and there was already a queue! Mission Ranch might have the longest and most varied brunch menu I’ve ever seen, there are options for every appetite. It was about USD50 for the all you can eat buffet which I thought was pretty good value.

Next on my list was a hike through Point Lobos State Natural Reserve. The area is known for its outstanding natural beauty and unique geological formations as well as it’s wildlife. I got an Uber from Mission Ranch and was very happy I hadn’t hired a car. There was NO parking available at 11:30 on Sunday morning, so if you’re driving you might want to arrive earlier than I did.

My plan was to take the Granite Point Trail north until I came to Monastery Beach and then continue along the coast to Carmel Beach. The plan almost perfectly worked. What I didn’t realise is that there’s a boundary fence between the edge of the reserve and Monastery Beach where the trail ends. I just had to “offroad” my way through dense, spiky bush onto Cabrillo Highway. I then followed the highway for a couple of hundred metres until I came to the beach carpark. Once I’d made it to Monastery Beach it was smooth sailing all the way to Carmel-by-the-Sea. I highly recommend trying this route, the hike was only around 2 hours in total and the scenery was stunning.

Once I’d made it to Carmel Beach, all that was left to do was have a coffee, browse the cute shops and find somewhere for dinner. At just one square mile, Carmel-by-the-Sea is easily walkable. I loved how all of the businesses had festive Halloween decorations and pumpkins outside carved with their names. It was impossible not to enjoy the tweeness of it all.

I decided on The Forge for dinner. With its lush gardens and outdoor fireplace, this restaurant/saloon was an absolute winner. The food was typical pub fare, but well done and served in a really cosy setting. I enjoyed another glass or two of local wine with my Forge Burger which was so good. The Forge is also dog-friendly so I made a few furry friends while dining alone. There’s even a special menu for pooches! Also, literature lovers might be interested in visiting the bar where Henry Miller and John Steinbeck used to hang out back in the day. This place was too cool.

That evening marked the end of my time in idyllic Carmel before heading to San Jose for work. I’m so glad that I made the most of the long trip from Sydney and squeezed in some sightseeing!

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